Showing posts with label goth sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label goth sewing. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 23, 2024

Making a Retro Velvet Dress

Watch me make a new velvet dress! 




I decided to make my own version of a dress I saw online this past week. The original dress was short and had an embroidered cross at the neck. 


One of the main reasons I started sewing in the first place was to make unique clothes or make something that would normally be too expensive to buy. Sometimes you see a dress in a magazine or online and think I could make that but I want it a little different and better quality.  

I made this dress with a good quality stretch black velvet and white ruffle trim. I made the skirt a little longer than the original so it hits just above the knee. I wanted to add a charm at the neck but I needed to be able to remove it for washing. So I added the charm with a D ring and a lobster clasp. 

I love the final look and will wear this dress often! 













Sunday, January 6, 2019

Gothic Victorian Jacket McCalls 7853 Pattern Review



My first make of 2019 is done and its a nice one!  This project also qualifies as my first make of the #makenine challenge I posted about earlier.  It is a fitted Victorian Gothic jacket lined in satin and trim in lace with puff sleeves. I used McCalls 7853 which is a fairly new pattern from McCalls. The pattern envelope looks its meant to be Mary Poppins maybe?



This past week, I started re-watching Penny Dreadful and was really inspired by the beautiful Victorian costumes on the TV series. I even did a whole blog post previously on the costumes from Penny Dreadful here. So I think this jacket has been on my mind for a really long time. The late Victorian period is my favourite for fashion silhouettes. Oh the bustles and lace trims!

After a quick root through my stash, I found a whole bolt of this black jacquard material to work with and a piece of black satin lining left over from another project. I also had the pattern in my stash from a shopping trip months ago. So I was off to the races!



I cut out a size 14 in the jacket and opted to just follow the pattern as is without any alterations. The collar is basically a roll collar with a notch cut out instead of two pieces and the front closes with frogs instead of buttons. The sleeves have a nice gather at the top and I added small shoulder pads and a wedge of material to make them stand up nicely. I fully lined the whole jacket with the satin and then finished the edges with a tiny lace and some gimp trim. I had salvaged the frogs from an old piece of clothing before I tossed it out, so they have been waiting in my stash for the perfect project. I finished off the back with a corset just so the jacket had a bit more detail to it. I used 3/4 inch D Rings and some trip to attach it. They are easier to add than you would think.

 

 


The jacket turned out so nice that I want to make a matching vest and long skirt to go with it also. Maybe a Victorian walking skirt would look nice?


 

 


Update! Here I am wearing the jacket to a Victorian Tea.




Thursday, December 6, 2018

Sew Frosting! and the Evolution of the Sewing Blog World



As a regular reader (I hope), you probably know already that I have been sewing for what seems like  forever. I lost touch with the sewing community for quite a few years when I started working full time in retail in 2005. I used to read some sewing blogs and follow some folks over on the Pattern Review website years ago but that was the extent of it for about 5-7 years at least. I am now fully back and immersed in the sewing world again for a while now. I'm still trying to catch up with the new trends and whats popular out there. A lot of things have changed while I was absent and I thought I might discuss the evolution of my own sewing and the sewing blog world in general.

I recently rediscovered the sewing blog world through Instagram. Instagram does seem to be the place where every fashion or sewing blogger has migrated to in the past few years, myself included. Instagram is a great platform to follow and discover new and older bloggers, however I do miss seeing all the pictures from traditional blogs and reading the long detailed posts. Maybe I'm just a Dinosaur? Who else misses this platform? There is just something lacking and impersonal about Instagram. Anyway, that's another topic for another day.

The biggest change I see in the sewing world is the rise of independent patterns. I have my favourite indie designers like Gertie (One of the bloggers I have followed since she first started sewing) and Sew Over It. I am happy to see how they have evolved their love for sewing into a full fledged career and business over the years. On the flip side of that, I find the sewing world has become much more commercially driven. Every where I look is an ad for either fabric or patterns. Just like in the fashion blogging world, there are influencers now. So even Sewists you follow just to see what they making are always pushing new products. It used to be really subtle but now its everywhere. A thousand voices shouting buy this! buy that! It can be really overwhelming at times to be honest. And they all seem to use indie patterns now. I sometimes feel old and outdated using the big 4 patterns (Vogue, McCalls, Butterick, and Simplicity) still or self drafting my own patterns. I'm feeling the pressure to use indie patterns instead even though I have a massive collection of the big 4. If I'm being completely honest, I find most of the indie patterns too simplistic and basic. And besides that, I am just very used to using the big 4. I know them too well by now. So its hard for me to change that mindset even though I would rather support the smaller independent companies instead of the big corporations.

Its really interesting to see how different the sewing community is now compared to years ago. I already have a huge stash of fabrics and patterns to work from so I haven't fallen into the trap of buying all the latest patterns. What I did notice though is how so many of them were not only making the same patterns but also the same fabrics! Why? When there are literally thousands of patterns and combinations to choose from. Why not do your own unique thing? Why follow the herd? This is the main thing that stood out to me after following sewists on IG. I think it comes down to a clever and subversive way of advertising to a niche market. The same way YT fashion influencers make videos on the same brands of clothing. They are supplied the patterns and material to make those garments in exchange for the vlog or blog. As a small business, its a brilliant way to advertise. However, it makes our sewing community a little more boring in the process. Add to that, how popular it is to churn out quick and cheap makes instead of well thought out outfits or wardrobes. I personally am going back to the slow sewing method as well. I just enjoy making bigger projects. they are more satisfying in the long run. Why bother sewing tees or sweatshirts that are so easily purchased when you can make something truly unique and not common in the mainstream stores. Some food for thought...

The next big change I see is that sewing has become a bigger community through Instagram and YT. It wasn't that long ago that there were hardly any sewing vloggers or bloggers out there. And even fewer alternative ones at that. Mari Mortem and Goth It Yourself are the two alternative sewists that stick out to me that have been around for years. And Gertie was the first blogger I can remember doing vintage and pin up style. I still miss her pink hair! Now there are tons of sewists doing vintage and alternative style. It's amazing! I just wish there were more of us Gothic sewists out there. Maybe we need to start a new tag so we can find each other? #gothsewist or #alternativesewist perhaps? There are also unique sewists with their own style that I wouldn't exactly call alternative so to speak but they are different and fun to follow and I love their style none the less. Sewists like Marcy Harriell (Oona Balloona), The Crafty Pinup, and Wanderstitch.

That brings me to the tag #sewfrosting. The term came about when blogger Tasia of Sewaholic said she was sewing too much frosting and not enough cake. In other words she was sewing too many statement garments and not enough basics. Then True Bias Patterns and Closet Case Patterns decided to make the saying into a contest on Instagram. To see how many people would like to make statement pieces instead of basics. I love that idea! Sewing frosting seems to be my go to thing anyway. I don't like to waste my precious sewing time on basics like tees or leggings. Or even if I did make those things they would be different in some way. I would make sparkly or velvet leggings or lace tees! That's just me.

This contest brings up another trend I've seen growing in the sewing community lately. And that is sewing basics or everyday items instead of special occasion. I think part of why this has changed over the years is that fashion itself has changed to rather boring basics. Anytime I dare to look up new fashion trends all I see are the same looks copied over and over. A blond girl wearing boots, jeans, and an oversized sweater in beige. Really? Is that what is considered trendy now? That seems pretty basic to me...I digress. That mainstream fashion trend of basic items has trickled into the sewing world with sewists making the same sweatshirts, tees, leggings, and basic skirts over and over. All beginner level sewing and no frosting! When did sewing become so boring? When I first started sewing clothing in the 80s, it was all about being unique and standing out. No one played it safe. I think one of the first things I made in high school was a full length prom dress in taffeta. So I'm really hoping that this trend of sewing more unique items will catch on and we can give the sweatshirts a break for a while.

My basic sewing is almost always stretch velvet. Its my safe zone and its super easy to work with. I change the patterns up by altering a sleeve or skirt but its still pretty basic to me. When I think of #sewfrosting I think bigger more challenging sewing like an evening dress or perhaps a velvet coat or cape maybe? I don't know, but I feel like I have gotten myself into my own personal rut by sewing so much with stretch velvet. Perhaps I need to make a big Victorian outfit just to do something different for a change. I am going to try and challenge myself a bit more and I don't need a Fashion Show as an excuse to do it.

My final thoughts on this subject are don't get yourself into the mindset of where am I going to wear that? It's completely impractical to make a Victorian ensemble! Maybe it is for some people. I look for events to go to so I can dress up! I don't wait around for the occasion, I do the opposite by making the outfit and then finding an occasion to wear it to. I have a big event this weekend and I don't have to stress or worry because I have several pieces already in my wardrobe that will work. Its just a matter of pulling an outfit together. Some food for thought for my fellow sewists that are struggling with this idea!

I will end this post with some amazing alternative Sewists I have found through Instagram and whom I find inspiration in everyday!

Madame Absinthe https://www.instagram.com/madame_absinthe/
Scary Kerri https://www.instagram.com/blackorchiddesignsscarykerri/
Anemia Adams https://www.instagram.com/anemia_addams/
Mari Mortem https://www.instagram.com/mari_mortem/
Sew Goth https://www.instagram.com/sewgoth/
Insomniacs Attic https://www.instagram.com/insomniacs_attic/
Hexenstern https://www.instagram.com/hexenstern/
Sarah https://www.instagram.com/talesfromageordiegoth/
Laura https://www.instagram.com/crowfaerylaura/