Making a Retro Velvet Dress

Watch me make a new velvet dress! 

I decided to make my own version of a dress I saw online this past week. The original dress was short and had an embroidered cross at the neck. 

One of the main reasons I started sewing in the first place was to make unique clothes or make something that would normally be too expensive to buy. Sometimes you see a dress in a magazine or online and think I could make that but I want it a little different and better quality.  

I made this dress with a good quality stretch black velvet and white ruffle trim. I made the skirt a little longer than the original so it hits just above the knee. I wanted to add a charm at the neck but I needed to be able to remove it for washing. So I added the charm with a D ring and a lobster clasp. 

I love the final look and will wear this dress often! 

Sew Frosting! and the Evolution of the Sewing Blog World

As a regular reader (I hope), you probably know already that I have been sewing for what seems like  forever. I lost touch with the sewing community for quite a few years when I started working full time in retail in 2005. I used to read some sewing blogs and follow some folks over on the Pattern Review website years ago but that was the extent of it for about 5-7 years at least. I am now fully back and immersed in the sewing world again for a while now. I'm still trying to catch up with the new trends and whats popular out there. A lot of things have changed while I was absent and I thought I might discuss the evolution of my own sewing and the sewing blog world in general.

I recently rediscovered the sewing blog world through Instagram. Instagram does seem to be the place where every fashion or sewing blogger has migrated to in the past few years, myself included. Instagram is a great platform to follow and discover new and older bloggers, however I do miss seeing all the pictures from traditional blogs and reading the long detailed posts. Maybe I'm just a Dinosaur? Who else misses this platform? There is just something lacking and impersonal about Instagram. Anyway, that's another topic for another day.

The biggest change I see in the sewing world is the rise of independent patterns. I have my favourite indie designers like Gertie (One of the bloggers I have followed since she first started sewing) and Sew Over It. I am happy to see how they have evolved their love for sewing into a full fledged career and business over the years. On the flip side of that, I find the sewing world has become much more commercially driven. Every where I look is an ad for either fabric or patterns. Just like in the fashion blogging world, there are influencers now. So even Sewists you follow just to see what they making are always pushing new products. It used to be really subtle but now its everywhere. A thousand voices shouting buy this! buy that! It can be really overwhelming at times to be honest. And they all seem to use indie patterns now. I sometimes feel old and outdated using the big 4 patterns (Vogue, McCalls, Butterick, and Simplicity) still or self drafting my own patterns. I'm feeling the pressure to use indie patterns instead even though I have a massive collection of the big 4. If I'm being completely honest, I find most of the indie patterns too simplistic and basic. And besides that, I am just very used to using the big 4. I know them too well by now. So its hard for me to change that mindset even though I would rather support the smaller independent companies instead of the big corporations.

Its really interesting to see how different the sewing community is now compared to years ago. I already have a huge stash of fabrics and patterns to work from so I haven't fallen into the trap of buying all the latest patterns. What I did notice though is how so many of them were not only making the same patterns but also the same fabrics! Why? When there are literally thousands of patterns and combinations to choose from. Why not do your own unique thing? Why follow the herd? This is the main thing that stood out to me after following sewists on IG. I think it comes down to a clever and subversive way of advertising to a niche market. The same way YT fashion influencers make videos on the same brands of clothing. They are supplied the patterns and material to make those garments in exchange for the vlog or blog. As a small business, its a brilliant way to advertise. However, it makes our sewing community a little more boring in the process. Add to that, how popular it is to churn out quick and cheap makes instead of well thought out outfits or wardrobes. I personally am going back to the slow sewing method as well. I just enjoy making bigger projects. they are more satisfying in the long run. Why bother sewing tees or sweatshirts that are so easily purchased when you can make something truly unique and not common in the mainstream stores. Some food for thought...

The next big change I see is that sewing has become a bigger community through Instagram and YT. It wasn't that long ago that there were hardly any sewing vloggers or bloggers out there. And even fewer alternative ones at that. Mari Mortem and Goth It Yourself are the two alternative sewists that stick out to me that have been around for years. And Gertie was the first blogger I can remember doing vintage and pin up style. I still miss her pink hair! Now there are tons of sewists doing vintage and alternative style. It's amazing! I just wish there were more of us Gothic sewists out there. Maybe we need to start a new tag so we can find each other? #gothsewist or #alternativesewist perhaps? There are also unique sewists with their own style that I wouldn't exactly call alternative so to speak but they are different and fun to follow and I love their style none the less. Sewists like Marcy Harriell (Oona Balloona), The Crafty Pinup, and Wanderstitch.

That brings me to the tag #sewfrosting. The term came about when blogger Tasia of Sewaholic said she was sewing too much frosting and not enough cake. In other words she was sewing too many statement garments and not enough basics. Then True Bias Patterns and Closet Case Patterns decided to make the saying into a contest on Instagram. To see how many people would like to make statement pieces instead of basics. I love that idea! Sewing frosting seems to be my go to thing anyway. I don't like to waste my precious sewing time on basics like tees or leggings. Or even if I did make those things they would be different in some way. I would make sparkly or velvet leggings or lace tees! That's just me.

This contest brings up another trend I've seen growing in the sewing community lately. And that is sewing basics or everyday items instead of special occasion. I think part of why this has changed over the years is that fashion itself has changed to rather boring basics. Anytime I dare to look up new fashion trends all I see are the same looks copied over and over. A blond girl wearing boots, jeans, and an oversized sweater in beige. Really? Is that what is considered trendy now? That seems pretty basic to me...I digress. That mainstream fashion trend of basic items has trickled into the sewing world with sewists making the same sweatshirts, tees, leggings, and basic skirts over and over. All beginner level sewing and no frosting! When did sewing become so boring? When I first started sewing clothing in the 80s, it was all about being unique and standing out. No one played it safe. I think one of the first things I made in high school was a full length prom dress in taffeta. So I'm really hoping that this trend of sewing more unique items will catch on and we can give the sweatshirts a break for a while.

My basic sewing is almost always stretch velvet. Its my safe zone and its super easy to work with. I change the patterns up by altering a sleeve or skirt but its still pretty basic to me. When I think of #sewfrosting I think bigger more challenging sewing like an evening dress or perhaps a velvet coat or cape maybe? I don't know, but I feel like I have gotten myself into my own personal rut by sewing so much with stretch velvet. Perhaps I need to make a big Victorian outfit just to do something different for a change. I am going to try and challenge myself a bit more and I don't need a Fashion Show as an excuse to do it.

My final thoughts on this subject are don't get yourself into the mindset of where am I going to wear that? It's completely impractical to make a Victorian ensemble! Maybe it is for some people. I look for events to go to so I can dress up! I don't wait around for the occasion, I do the opposite by making the outfit and then finding an occasion to wear it to. I have a big event this weekend and I don't have to stress or worry because I have several pieces already in my wardrobe that will work. Its just a matter of pulling an outfit together. Some food for thought for my fellow sewists that are struggling with this idea!

I will end this post with some amazing alternative Sewists I have found through Instagram and whom I find inspiration in everyday!

Madame Absinthe https://www.instagram.com/madame_absinthe/
Scary Kerri https://www.instagram.com/blackorchiddesignsscarykerri/
Anemia Adams https://www.instagram.com/anemia_addams/
Mari Mortem https://www.instagram.com/mari_mortem/
Sew Goth https://www.instagram.com/sewgoth/
Insomniacs Attic https://www.instagram.com/insomniacs_attic/
Hexenstern https://www.instagram.com/hexenstern/
Sarah https://www.instagram.com/talesfromageordiegoth/
Laura https://www.instagram.com/crowfaerylaura/

Upcycled Labyrinth Tee Dress

I am sure I am not the only one with a large collection of graphic tees! I have every type of graphic tee from bands to movie characters to just weird or funny sayings. Of course some tees wear out and develop wholes over time from washing and wear. Some of these end up being relegated to just "around the house" tees. But how many around the house tees do I actually need? Ugh. 

It always fun to upcycle the tees that are in bad shape instead. Turn them into something more useful for a second life.  Sometimes I turn old tees into pillows or quilted blankets. The designs can be cut out and used as patches on jackets or shirts also. Or they can be turned into something completely new like a t-shirt dress! 

This Labyrinth tee has seen better days. I bought it ages ago at a horror movie convention. Unfortunately the fabric was very unstable and the shirt started to disintegrate in the wash very quickly.  I loved the design because well, it's Bowie!, so I thought I would try and save it by using the front as fabric in a dress. 

The first thing I did was cut the top apart. Normally I use the back of the tee also but in this case the material was so bad I only recycled the front part with the design.  

Next I cut out a back, sleeves, and skirt out of new fabric. My blacks do not match perfectly but when do they ever match perfectly? I used one of my own patterns. A design I use over and over again so it's tried and true. 

I serged the pieces together in the usual way using a 4 thread overlock stitch. 

The neck step was to add some trim. I chose a sparkly silver ruffle for the neck and a silver and black lace for the hem and zig zagged it on. A little bit of sparkle seems appropriate on a Bowie tee doesn't it? 

Unfortunately there was a small hole on the front of the tee also. So I needed to add some trim to cover that hole. I decided to make it seem like it was supposed to be there all along by adding rows of lace and a small fabric rosette. To make a rosette just pleat and gather trim as you zig zag. I then take the gathered trim and roll it into a rosette.  The rosette is just zig zagged on top of the other trim on the tee by the neckline. 

And here is the finished dress! I'm going to be careful washing this dress from now on by using cold water and hanging it up to dry so that hopefully it doesn't continue to disintegrate. 

 

A Trio of Halloween Quilts

I've been busy sewing lately but it hasn't been velvet dresses for a change! I have been turning back the clock by about 20 years and taking up an old sewing hobby that I left behind in the 90s. Think about that. The last time I made a quilt, Nirvana and Pearl Jam were all over the radio, Buffy was hunting vampires weekly, and Doc Martens were just regular boots. Well, the quilting bug has bit me again and hard this time! 

It all started innocently enough with a few baby quilts for friends and the next thing I knew I was sewing a full size quilt for my entryway bench for spring. I finished this pretty green and black quilt for the entryway that matches a green spring wreath! You see, I have this thing about matching my wreaths to the quilts I make for every season. Now that I've hung the fall wreath over the bench, this quilt has moved to the living room because it's just too pretty to pack away yet.  

The next quilt was made for a halloween swap between bloggers. I absolutely loved how the colours and prints worked together so well in this adorable little quilt. The batting was a little thicker than what I used in the first quilt and gave it a nice tucked look. The teddy bear you see sitting on this quilt is also hand made by me many, many years ago. 

Since I loved how the orange and black quilt looked on the bench I decided to make a traditional halloween quilt for myself also. It is so bright and cheery with all the orange and purple that it brightens up the whole room. Last year I was really into the black and white halloween decorations, but this year I am back to all the traditional colours again. I missed them! 

I haven't quite finished this last quilt but I will by halloween night. In the meantime, Jack Skellington and Cthulhu can enjoy sitting on it. Hehe. 

*meme images from Pinterest. 

Everyday Outfit: Skully Dress

I hopefully have a lot of exciting new opportunities coming down the pipeline soon. I really can't say too much about some things because I don't really know if they will come to fruition yet or not. And I really don't want to jinx things by discussing them on my blog either. So please keep your fingers crossed for me that it all works out and goes smoothly! 

In the meanwhile I have been busy sewing up some old school gothic velvet tops! These seem to be very popular for me because the young girls think it's something new and the ladies my age love the nostalgic look. These tops are the same designs that I used to make in the late 90s and early 2000s. They are very flattering and just feel nice on. Too bad none of them are my size or I would be taking them home! 

What I'm wearing: 

Dress: made by me

Strappy sandals: thrifted

Cardigan: Thrifted

Choker: Spencer's 

From Laura Ashley to Gothic Princess Dress

Have you ever found one of those gorgeous 80s velvet dresses at the thrift store but pass it by because it's too small (or large) and looks a little too old fashioned? Well I found a classic velvet Laura Ashley dress a few weeks ago and I thought with a little bit of hard work it could turn into something really special! 

Here is what the dress looked like before I started. If you are one of those people that like vintage dresses to stay original than look away now! Lol. 

I have a special event coming up in a few weeks and this dress will be perfect for it. However the dress was at least two sizes too small and would need a complete gothic overhaul. I always like to sketch out my design before I start working. Please excuse my terrible drawings! 

The first step was to rip out the zipper and cut out the lining. I also chopped the sleeves to elbow length and lowered the neckline to a more flattering line. 

 

I then added a panel of stretch lace and stretch velvet on the back to widen the dress to my size. I'm impressed that I had a velvet in the stash that actually matches pretty well too. Since I used stretch fabrics I can just pull the dress on over my head now. No zipper required. 

Next up I added lace trim around the neck and "corset trim" (bridal button loop) down the back. I also added the lace and trim to the sleeves as well creating a really cute finished look. 

Finally I added large bell sleeves and more lace trim to all the hems. 

The pictures don't really do the dress justice. It turned out really stunning and cost only $40 total including all the lace, velvet, and the original dress. Plus it has major twirl factor. I promise I will take better pictures when I wear it. :)

Edit- I took some better photos outside so the details are a little more visible. 

Graduation and a Prom Dress

This month has proved to be extremely hectic but wonderful. I have been so busy sewing up a storm with custom orders and new designs the past few weeks that June has flown by too quickly. The month has gone by in a whirlwind and my son has graduated high school this year as well. I'm so proud of him! 

I have been working on a new dress design lately. It's a classic 50s style cocktail dress with a sweetheart neckline and a full circle skirt. The twirl factor is very high! This prom dress was made for a special client. She wanted a classy pin up dress for prom. I designed the bodice to fit her perfectly and made it out of a gorgeous cotton satin. The dress is interlined with organza and has a built in crinoline. But I leant her a separate additional vintage petticoat to achieve that true 50s silhouette. It also has a horsehair hem and boning to hold it up perfectly. The dress might look simple on the outside but there is a ton of work in this dress. The silver shoes and hair are perfect with the dress. She looks so pretty! 

While working on the prom dress I also decided to make a cotton version of it as well. So I cut out the dress in a cute Halloween print that just came in at the fabric store. The Halloween fabrics started showing up last week. Woo-Hoo! Here are a few pics of my favourites so far...

I chose the black and white Day of the Dead Skully print. From start to finish took about four hours to make. The dress is extremely comfortable too. I wore it to my son's grade 12 graduation last Thursday night. I am very proud of all the hard work he put in at high school for the last 4 years. He plans on going back for a victory lap (or grade 13) at high school and then on to a university after that. He hopes to study Theatre Arts at University. Congratulations Alex!