2019 Sewing Plans and Make Nine Challenge

Happy New Year everyone!

The Make Nine challenge came about when blogger Lucky Lucille decided to post a Make Nine list instead of a best nine list on Instagram in 2016. I made up a wishlist willy-nilly of some items I wanted to make last year and posted it up on Instagram.

I think my choices were a little lofty but I did manage to make a few of these items. I made a red  cape but it was even nicer than the one pictured. I made it in wool and red taffeta. I also made the black and purple cape but I ended up putting a Harry Potter badge on it so it is reserved for Harry Potter events now. And finally I did make a men's vest for the fashion show that looked very close to the one pictured above. Unfortunately, that is all I managed to finish from this list. But there is always this year!

Having a look at the original post about the challenge again by Lucky Lucille I realize that she did give some basic guidelines and questions to follow for the challenge. So I thought it might be fun to answer the questions and put a little more thought into my make nine list this year.


Here are 9 questions to consider when choosing your 9 projects:

1. What do you want or need? Be forgiving about pattern choice but get specific about what you want/need to make this year.  Tops and skirts in more colours than just black. I know crazy right? More proper Victorian pieces in velvet to wear to events. A fitted jacket and maybe a few walking skirts.

2. What did you learn from last year’s successes and “failures”? If you didn’t finish something on last year’s list, ask yourself why. Well I din't get the big dresses made and I think that was because I had the fashion show to do. Some items crossed over but those that were just for myself , I didn't get to. I tend to put things for myself on the back burner but I would like to challenge myself with bigger projects this year.

3. What values are important to you? Are you working towards a capsule wardrobe? A more ethical one? Are you on a budget? Being practical about what you choose to make is not boring or against the spirit of a challenge. There is success in logic. Logical and practical are definitely not terms I would use to describe my sewing or my personal style. Ha! I think maybe I can do some better planning this year though in order to achieve better results and using time management would be a great improvement as well.

4. What’s in your laundry basket right now that you wear all the time? Are you interested in trying to recreate it? Lots and lots of black velvet is my laundry basket! But like I mentioned earlier, some more colour would be nice. Maybe some jackets and skirts to mix and match as well.

5. What types of things do you really LOVE making? What do you dislike making? If you hate making pants, you don’t have to put them on your list just to feel like you conquered some new technique. I love to make dresses and tops, especially knits or velvets. I loathe making pants. I haven't made a pair of pants since the 90s but I might be willing to make some leggings again. But I don't really wear pants often either.

6. Are you a seasonal maker? Maybe your Make Nine list only includes summer patterns. Or winter knits. That’s totally okay! I'm not a seasonal sewer. I make things all year long. Mostly dresses in the summer and spring. And Jackets and sweaters in the fall and winter.

7. Look at your calendar. Time isn’t found, it’s made. How much time can you make for each of the projects on your list? I'm lucky that I work from home and can fit in personal projects around making custom orders or stock for the shop. I do have the time as long as I don't waste it on social media.

8. Do you want to stash-bust? Why or why not? Don’t force yourself to make something just because you’ve owned the pattern for years. If you haven’t made it yet, maybe your tastes have changed. That’s normal. No need to feel guilty about that. Maybe it’s time to re-home some patterns that no longer speak to you and start fresh. I really need to stash-bust in a major way. I also need to de-stash a lot of fabric that I've collected over the years. I just don't have the room for it all. I am going to try and pick from the patterns I already own. I will try to make an effort to use stash fabric first, but I don't want to limit myself to shopping only the stash for fabric.

9. Is there a completely new-to-you type of project that you want to explore? Do you have the time and patience to explore it, knowing it’s possible you won’t like/wear it in the end? If yes, by all means branch out and try new things! That’s how you grow and get better. I made a corset years ago but I want to start making some more. I have talented friends that make corsets but I would rather make my own again.

And so onto my #makenine list for 2019!

This year I chose only fabrics and patterns from my stash so this will be a stash busting project as well! This will make my Hubby very happy. haha.

Fabrics left to right and top to bottom:

1. Thin printed knit perfect for a dress- McCalls 7812 for this print. Its a cute ruched front dress.

2, Dark red mottled sweater knit- Self drafted sweater with ribbon trim.

3. A leopard coat print I have been saving forever- Gertie Butterick 5824

4. Red and Black Floral stretch velvet- Vogue 9265

5. Black stretch velvet- McCalls 7869 Victorian style knit top

6. Black Jacquard- McCalls 7023 Vest and McCalls 7853 Jacket

7. Purple stretch velvet- Self drafted fit and flare dress (maybe long?)

8. crushed fur coat fabric- Vogue 8841 Coat with belt

9. Charcoal grey sparkly sweater knit- Self drafted sweater pattern.


I think that is enough to keep me busy for a while and will help deplete some of my huge stash! I will try to blog about all of them as I go.

Sew Frosting! and the Evolution of the Sewing Blog World

As a regular reader (I hope), you probably know already that I have been sewing for what seems like  forever. I lost touch with the sewing community for quite a few years when I started working full time in retail in 2005. I used to read some sewing blogs and follow some folks over on the Pattern Review website years ago but that was the extent of it for about 5-7 years at least. I am now fully back and immersed in the sewing world again for a while now. I'm still trying to catch up with the new trends and whats popular out there. A lot of things have changed while I was absent and I thought I might discuss the evolution of my own sewing and the sewing blog world in general.

I recently rediscovered the sewing blog world through Instagram. Instagram does seem to be the place where every fashion or sewing blogger has migrated to in the past few years, myself included. Instagram is a great platform to follow and discover new and older bloggers, however I do miss seeing all the pictures from traditional blogs and reading the long detailed posts. Maybe I'm just a Dinosaur? Who else misses this platform? There is just something lacking and impersonal about Instagram. Anyway, that's another topic for another day.

The biggest change I see in the sewing world is the rise of independent patterns. I have my favourite indie designers like Gertie (One of the bloggers I have followed since she first started sewing) and Sew Over It. I am happy to see how they have evolved their love for sewing into a full fledged career and business over the years. On the flip side of that, I find the sewing world has become much more commercially driven. Every where I look is an ad for either fabric or patterns. Just like in the fashion blogging world, there are influencers now. So even Sewists you follow just to see what they making are always pushing new products. It used to be really subtle but now its everywhere. A thousand voices shouting buy this! buy that! It can be really overwhelming at times to be honest. And they all seem to use indie patterns now. I sometimes feel old and outdated using the big 4 patterns (Vogue, McCalls, Butterick, and Simplicity) still or self drafting my own patterns. I'm feeling the pressure to use indie patterns instead even though I have a massive collection of the big 4. If I'm being completely honest, I find most of the indie patterns too simplistic and basic. And besides that, I am just very used to using the big 4. I know them too well by now. So its hard for me to change that mindset even though I would rather support the smaller independent companies instead of the big corporations.

Its really interesting to see how different the sewing community is now compared to years ago. I already have a huge stash of fabrics and patterns to work from so I haven't fallen into the trap of buying all the latest patterns. What I did notice though is how so many of them were not only making the same patterns but also the same fabrics! Why? When there are literally thousands of patterns and combinations to choose from. Why not do your own unique thing? Why follow the herd? This is the main thing that stood out to me after following sewists on IG. I think it comes down to a clever and subversive way of advertising to a niche market. The same way YT fashion influencers make videos on the same brands of clothing. They are supplied the patterns and material to make those garments in exchange for the vlog or blog. As a small business, its a brilliant way to advertise. However, it makes our sewing community a little more boring in the process. Add to that, how popular it is to churn out quick and cheap makes instead of well thought out outfits or wardrobes. I personally am going back to the slow sewing method as well. I just enjoy making bigger projects. they are more satisfying in the long run. Why bother sewing tees or sweatshirts that are so easily purchased when you can make something truly unique and not common in the mainstream stores. Some food for thought...

The next big change I see is that sewing has become a bigger community through Instagram and YT. It wasn't that long ago that there were hardly any sewing vloggers or bloggers out there. And even fewer alternative ones at that. Mari Mortem and Goth It Yourself are the two alternative sewists that stick out to me that have been around for years. And Gertie was the first blogger I can remember doing vintage and pin up style. I still miss her pink hair! Now there are tons of sewists doing vintage and alternative style. It's amazing! I just wish there were more of us Gothic sewists out there. Maybe we need to start a new tag so we can find each other? #gothsewist or #alternativesewist perhaps? There are also unique sewists with their own style that I wouldn't exactly call alternative so to speak but they are different and fun to follow and I love their style none the less. Sewists like Marcy Harriell (Oona Balloona), The Crafty Pinup, and Wanderstitch.

That brings me to the tag #sewfrosting. The term came about when blogger Tasia of Sewaholic said she was sewing too much frosting and not enough cake. In other words she was sewing too many statement garments and not enough basics. Then True Bias Patterns and Closet Case Patterns decided to make the saying into a contest on Instagram. To see how many people would like to make statement pieces instead of basics. I love that idea! Sewing frosting seems to be my go to thing anyway. I don't like to waste my precious sewing time on basics like tees or leggings. Or even if I did make those things they would be different in some way. I would make sparkly or velvet leggings or lace tees! That's just me.

This contest brings up another trend I've seen growing in the sewing community lately. And that is sewing basics or everyday items instead of special occasion. I think part of why this has changed over the years is that fashion itself has changed to rather boring basics. Anytime I dare to look up new fashion trends all I see are the same looks copied over and over. A blond girl wearing boots, jeans, and an oversized sweater in beige. Really? Is that what is considered trendy now? That seems pretty basic to me...I digress. That mainstream fashion trend of basic items has trickled into the sewing world with sewists making the same sweatshirts, tees, leggings, and basic skirts over and over. All beginner level sewing and no frosting! When did sewing become so boring? When I first started sewing clothing in the 80s, it was all about being unique and standing out. No one played it safe. I think one of the first things I made in high school was a full length prom dress in taffeta. So I'm really hoping that this trend of sewing more unique items will catch on and we can give the sweatshirts a break for a while.

My basic sewing is almost always stretch velvet. Its my safe zone and its super easy to work with. I change the patterns up by altering a sleeve or skirt but its still pretty basic to me. When I think of #sewfrosting I think bigger more challenging sewing like an evening dress or perhaps a velvet coat or cape maybe? I don't know, but I feel like I have gotten myself into my own personal rut by sewing so much with stretch velvet. Perhaps I need to make a big Victorian outfit just to do something different for a change. I am going to try and challenge myself a bit more and I don't need a Fashion Show as an excuse to do it.

My final thoughts on this subject are don't get yourself into the mindset of where am I going to wear that? It's completely impractical to make a Victorian ensemble! Maybe it is for some people. I look for events to go to so I can dress up! I don't wait around for the occasion, I do the opposite by making the outfit and then finding an occasion to wear it to. I have a big event this weekend and I don't have to stress or worry because I have several pieces already in my wardrobe that will work. Its just a matter of pulling an outfit together. Some food for thought for my fellow sewists that are struggling with this idea!

I will end this post with some amazing alternative Sewists I have found through Instagram and whom I find inspiration in everyday!

Madame Absinthe https://www.instagram.com/madame_absinthe/
Scary Kerri https://www.instagram.com/blackorchiddesignsscarykerri/
Anemia Adams https://www.instagram.com/anemia_addams/
Mari Mortem https://www.instagram.com/mari_mortem/
Sew Goth https://www.instagram.com/sewgoth/
Insomniacs Attic https://www.instagram.com/insomniacs_attic/
Hexenstern https://www.instagram.com/hexenstern/
Sarah https://www.instagram.com/talesfromageordiegoth/
Laura https://www.instagram.com/crowfaerylaura/

90s Goth Nostalgia

I have been in a 90s nostalgia mood again for the past few weeks. Whilst browsing through Etsy and EBay I came across some vintage 90s Poet blouses. they are one of those items you rarely find in the thrift stores, perhaps because they were usually made in silk or rayon and just haven't held up over the years. I was shocked by the prices I found though. They ranged anywhere from $100 up to $250! I thought Screw That! And went and dug through my stash of vintage patterns. I finally decided on Simplicity 2163.

It is an Arkivestry pattern by Simplicity. A brand name that I like and trust to sew with. My first blouse I made from a creamy coloured stretch rayon in a jacquard print. I edged it in a heavy lace. I'm really impressed with how it turned out, as its the perfect length and size for me. I did modify the sleeves a bit by adding elastic instead of a cuff, but otherwise i did the pattern as is.

In fact I was so impressed with this top that I made a second version in a burnout black velvet. I think I will get more wear out of the black version in the long run. This blouse is so comfortable to wear in this soft material and yet it still looks very dressy.

Which colour do you prefer? Cream, black or maybe a red next? Now I think I will make some more of these for the shop so others can enjoy some vintage poet blouses as well!

Death by Glitter Fashion Show

Well hello there! If I still have any followers out there! I know you probably think I fell off the face of the earth but actually I have just been extremely busy lately. And I would love to show you what I've been up to!

2016 has been a challenging year for me just like most people I know. It started out slow with building my online business on Etsy. I've have been steadily working on it though. This past November I had an opportunity to participate in an amazing Fashion Show with some very talented friends from That's My Drag . The theme was Glam Rock , David Bowie, and Velvet Goldmine. The more glitter the better!

I opted to show off some of my more advanced sewing skills by making some evening gowns that I ordinarily don't have the chance to make. I spent a lot of time and blood, sweat, and tears making these dresses!

My first model was the beautiful and talented Miss Ruby Moon. I wanted Ruby's dress to look like old Hollywood glam. The dress is made from a heavy satin with a sequin shelf bust and thigh high slit. I wanted to up the glitter quotient so I added an over skirt in sequin that Ruby can remove if she wants to. I also added a sweet little capelet in black velvet with sequin appliqué that matches the over skirt. It's a truly timeless and glamorous outfit.

My second model was the fabulous Sapphyre Poisone I went for a sexy androgenous look for Sapphyre. I made a very fitted long velvet dress with an ultra low cut neckline. I emphasized the neckline with handsewn crystals. I topped it with a 20s style cocoon coat in sparkle sequin.

My next model was the talented and gorgeous Athena McQueen. I went with a more gothic witchy look for Athena McQueen, I made a pretty dress with a hi-low hem out of a purple satin with black spiderweb lace overlay. However it was Athena's velvet coat that was the real show stopper. It was a full length coat made from crushed velvet and a corset back. I added feathered trim to the collar for a dramatic effect.

Last but certainly not least was the hostess of the show Victoria Parks in a long fitted velvet dress with a pretty romantic sequin top over it. Victoria has the most amazing taste in jewelry and accessories. And I was delighted when she did a special performance of Stevie Nick's song Stand Back!

And finally that leaves my dress. I've always wanted to make a princess dress so I did! this dress has three layers. Red Chiffon, black chiffon, and a lining in satin. I edged the sleeves in sequin trim for a bit of sparkle and then topped it off with a Stevie Nicks style shawl. You know I had to add a little bit of Stevie in there somewhere!

My make up was done professionally for the show. I love the swirls and the moon. It matched my outfit perfectly!  We had a lot of fun that evening with loads of talented designers and performers. The show was a huge success for everyone involved!

Upcycled Labyrinth Tee Dress

I am sure I am not the only one with a large collection of graphic tees! I have every type of graphic tee from bands to movie characters to just weird or funny sayings. Of course some tees wear out and develop wholes over time from washing and wear. Some of these end up being relegated to just "around the house" tees. But how many around the house tees do I actually need? Ugh. 

It always fun to upcycle the tees that are in bad shape instead. Turn them into something more useful for a second life.  Sometimes I turn old tees into pillows or quilted blankets. The designs can be cut out and used as patches on jackets or shirts also. Or they can be turned into something completely new like a t-shirt dress! 

This Labyrinth tee has seen better days. I bought it ages ago at a horror movie convention. Unfortunately the fabric was very unstable and the shirt started to disintegrate in the wash very quickly.  I loved the design because well, it's Bowie!, so I thought I would try and save it by using the front as fabric in a dress. 

The first thing I did was cut the top apart. Normally I use the back of the tee also but in this case the material was so bad I only recycled the front part with the design.  

Next I cut out a back, sleeves, and skirt out of new fabric. My blacks do not match perfectly but when do they ever match perfectly? I used one of my own patterns. A design I use over and over again so it's tried and true. 

I serged the pieces together in the usual way using a 4 thread overlock stitch. 

The neck step was to add some trim. I chose a sparkly silver ruffle for the neck and a silver and black lace for the hem and zig zagged it on. A little bit of sparkle seems appropriate on a Bowie tee doesn't it? 

Unfortunately there was a small hole on the front of the tee also. So I needed to add some trim to cover that hole. I decided to make it seem like it was supposed to be there all along by adding rows of lace and a small fabric rosette. To make a rosette just pleat and gather trim as you zig zag. I then take the gathered trim and roll it into a rosette.  The rosette is just zig zagged on top of the other trim on the tee by the neckline. 

And here is the finished dress! I'm going to be careful washing this dress from now on by using cold water and hanging it up to dry so that hopefully it doesn't continue to disintegrate. 

 

Mourning Glory Designs on Etsy!

I am really excited to present my new online shop Mourning Glory Designs on Etsy! I will be adding tons more stock in the coming weeks but here are a few things I've listed already.

A high-low purple velvet dress:

A high-low dress in a pretty dragon print:

A few classic goth gauntlets in black velvet or lace: 

Some pretty little hooded capelets to wear over a formal dress: 

And cozy infinity scarves: (there are more of these coming soon! 

Plus I have been working on some new sweater coats. I will be posting some soon in camel and purple knit. 

This second one has a hood and belled sleeves with corsetting on the back. It's my favourite so far. 

To help you along with any Holiday shopping you may be planning, I am offering a 20% off coupon until the end of January! Just enter MourningGloryDesigns as the coupon code. Seasons Greetings and Happy Shopping!